Saturday 9 April 2016

Peru trip 3rd - 16th October 2015

Saturday 3rd October 2015

After a 15 hour flight from Heathrow to Lima, via Amsterdam, the previous day we were all set for a lie-in and a generally restful first day in Peru. What we got was a crack of dawn start and a long day exploring birding sites around Lima. We were staying in a comfortable hotel in the Miraflores district and my first South American bird, inevitably, was a pigeon flying off as I drew back the curtains – West Peruvian Dove, the first of literally hundreds of new birds for me.
After a quick breakfast our group of 10 people boarded a waiting minibus which took us through Lima, along the newly built ocean road to the main harbour at Callao. Eared Dove and Shining Cowbird were seen in some of the city squares whilst overhead Black Vultures were a regular and, for someone from the Fens, a rather eerie sight!
We arrived early in Callao and had an hour to wait for our boat to leave on a trip around the Palomino Islands. Whilst waiting we had great views of one of the iconic Peruvian species – the fabulously weird looking Inca Tern. Several Peruvian Pelicans were loafing on harbour walls and Peruvian Boobys were flying further out to sea. By comparison to these species the Neotropic Cormorants were something of a disappointment.

Inca Tern

Peruvian Pelican

The Palomino Islands are only a couple of miles off the mainland but by the time we got to them it felt like a proper pelagic with Wilson’s and Pale-vented Storm-Petrels and Peruvian Diving Petrels joining the throng of boobys and terns, and two members of the group throwing up over the side. The main non-birding attraction of the islands are the hundreds of Southern Sea-lions that breed there and which could be heard (and smelt!) before they could be seen covering the group of rocky islands. About 40 Humboldt Penguins were in amongst other nesting birds but it wasn’t until I got home and checked my photos that I realised that one pair had a large chick with them.

Southern Sea-lions

Humboldt Penguins

Our excellent guide, Jose, picked out a tiny bird flitting around the water’s edge – our first Peruvian endemic, Surf Cinclodes. Other birds seen included Grey, Belcher’s and Kelp Gulls, Red-legged and Guanay Cormorants, Surfbirds, Sooty Shearwater and Turkey Vultures.
Returning to the harbour at Callao we piled back into the minibus to be driven to the other side of Lima and the Pantanos de Villa marshes. Sandwiched between the main road and the ocean the marshes are fairly small but held a huge variety of birds, most of them new to me. Waders included Peruvian Thick-knee, Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Killdeer and American Oystercatcher; herons were Little Blue, Snowy Egret and Black-crowned Night Heron; other water birds present were Great and Pied-billed Grebes, Andean Coot and Cinnamon Teal. Passerines included Vermillion Flycatcher, Long-tailed Mockingbird, Yellow-hooded and Scrub Blackbird and a particular highlight for me, Amazilia Hummingbird, my first ever hummer. As we returned to the minibus we had excellent views of two Burrowing Owls with, more distantly, Harris’s Hawk and American Kestrel.

We returned to our hotel in Miraflores exhausted and hungry but ready for another early start in the morning.
Burrowing Owls


Sunday 4th October

An early flight from Lima saw us say goodbye to Jose and fly 2 hours south east to Puerto Maldonado in the Amazon basin where we were met by our new guides Oscar and Uriel who would be with us for the rainforest part of our journey. A short drive took us to the travel company headquarters where we could repack and leave any luggage not required over the next four days. Then it was an hour-long trip on very bumpy roads to the Tambopata river where we boarded a small motorized canoe for the trip to Posada Amazonas, our destination for that night.

Tambopata River
 The river journey itself was quite quiet with few birds. Greater Yellow-headed Vultures were new to us, joining the now familiar Turkey Vultures flying overhead. Just before reaching Posada we slowed down by a small riverside clay-lick and watched our first wild Macaws (2 Red-and-Green) at work on the cliff face.
We arrived at Posada Amazonas mid-afternoon and after dumping luggage in our rooms we were straight off for our first jungle walk. Along with the heat and humidity what hit me most was the sheer noise of the jungle. The Cicadas start singing one after the other and the affect is of a wave of metallic sound rushing towards you, over you and then receding into the distance before coming again. At the same time other insects, frogs and birds are chirruping from all around; an experience of which I could never tire.
Posada is well known for the canopy tower, a construction of wood and scaffolding that rises 37 metres from the jungle floor and gives fabulous views across the canopy. From here we had sightings of King Vulture, Crested and Olive Oropendulas, and Black-headed and Mealy Parrots flying above the trees. Wandering around in the canopy itself we were treated to our first views of monkeys – 6 Saddle-back Tamarins and 2 Dusky Titis.

Amazon forest from canopy tower

King Vulture

The night was interesting as none of the rooms in Posada Amazonas (nor in Tambopata) possess windows – the rooms are completely open to the jungle with the nearest trees just a few feet away. We were undisturbed but one of our party had what was probably a Mouse Opossum in their room whilst another found a poison-dart frog in their shower! The noise of insects and other unidentified sounds meant I had to resort to earplugs in order to get any sleep.


Monday 5th October

This morning there was the much anticipated trip to the Tres Chimbadas oxbow lake, before setting off though we were interrupted by the appearance of an Amazonian Motmot in the lodge grounds. We walked back to the river and our motorized canoe and headed back downstream for a few minutes before pulling in to a muddy landing place and clambering out. A short walk took us to the lake where a wooden raft-like structure awaited us. There were plenty of seats and we spread ourselves out as Uriel prepared to paddle us out into the lake. A Ringed Kingfisher kept an eye on us from a tree on the bank and we had great views of our first Hoatzin of the trip. We paddled slowly to the far side of the lake noting Anhinga, Cocoi Heron, Smooth-billed Ani and Red-capped Cardinal before our guides suddenly became very excited. They’d heard the rare Zig-zag Heron calling from the reeds, a bird they’d not recorded at the lake before. We spent twenty minutes or so trying to coax the bird into view, at one stage we must have been just a few feet from it, but it stayed out of sight and we decided to move on.

Hoatzin

Our first Sungrebes, a male and a female, soon appeared showing reluctantly in the lakeside vegetation and Chestnut-fronted Macaws and Cobalt-winged Parrots flew overhead. Oscar and Uriel baited some fishing lines with meat and had soon pulled two Yellow-bellied Piranha on board for us to see. Smaller than I had imagined, the teeth were still pretty impressive. Sadly the hoped for Giant River Otters didn’t appear and after 3 hours we were back on the river heading for the Tambopata Research Centre, our base for the next 3 nights.

Sun Grebe

Yellow-bellied Piranha

The boat trip took about 6 hours in total and once we passed the Malinowski River checkpoint there were no further signs of human habitation. We passed our first Capybaras early in the trip, two animals loafing by the side of the river being preened by Giant Cowbirds. We passed a single Orinoco Goose, a Yellow-billed Tern flew by and two glorious Swallow-tailed Kites put in a distant appearance accompanied by a Plumbeous Kite. A Great Potoo was spotted by one of the guides, high up in a distant tree. But once again the river was fairly quiet and I was slightly disappointed at the lack of wildlife.

Capybara with Giant Cowbirds

We docked at another of the now familiar muddy landing places and walked for about 15 minutes into the jungle before coming to a clearing and the Tambopata Research Centre (TRC). We had a brief welcome and introductory talk from the centre manager, most of which I managed to miss as I’d spotted 2 Scarlet Macaws and a Black-fronted Nunbird in the surrounding trees.
We once again checked into our rooms and went for a brief, late afternoon jungle walk encountering both Common Potoo and Giant Tinamou.




Common Potoo
Tuesday 6th October

A pre-dawn start was required for the next highlight – the trip to the famous clay-lick. We walked quietly by torchlight through the jungle, Oscar pointing out the roosting Great Tinamou for anyone that had missed it the previous day, and arrived back at the river and a waiting boat for a short trip upriver. Even as we arrived we could hear a hubbub of noise from parrots in the surrounding trees and we wove our way single file to the viewing point where we sat on stools and waited for the show to begin. Initially the only birds in view were Social Flycatchers and Mottle-backed Elaenia flitting around the vegetation in front of the clay-lick. A Drab Water Tyrant demonstrated how appropriate the name is and was joined briefly by a Yellow-browed Sparrow and several Blue-throated Piping-Guans appeared on the cliff. 

Social Flycatcher

Blue-throated Piping Guans

Things then began to get really busy with small groups of Blue-and-Yellow, Red-bellied and Scarlet Macaws flying past to perch in trees by the clay-lick. Smaller parrots out-numbered them and were the first to land on the lick itself – Yellow-crowned and Mealy were probably the most numerous but there were good numbers White-bellied, Orange-cheeked and Blue-headed. The Macaws soon joined in and Chestnut-fronted and Red-and-Green were added to the growing list. All too soon the action began to slow down and groups of parrots flew off leaving just a few groups of late-comers and stragglers. We packed our things together and made our way back to the lodge for a well-deserved breakfast and entertainment courtesy of the tame Scarlet Macaws!

Mealy, Yellow-crowned, Orange-cheeked and Blue-headed Parrots

Scarlet Macaws

For the rest of the day we split into 2 groups of 5 people plus guide and went for two very hot and tiring but rewarding jungle walks. My group was led by Uriel who expertly picked out numerous species high in the canopy such as Pink-throated Becard, Guira Tanager and Gilded Barbet. One of the best finds was a Long-tailed Pottoo with chicks. A number of species were also tape-lured allowing us usually just brief views of rarely seen birds such as Plain-winged Antshrike, White-eyed Ant Wren and Dwarf Tyrant Mannikin. A small group of Peruvian Spider Monkeys appeared just as we returned to the lodge.

Long-tailed Pottoo

Peruvian Spider Monkey

We were back at the lodge as it began to get dark and, this being our second night, made a dash for the communal showers in an attempt to avoid the queues! We then met up in the canteen for a fabulous meal (quite how the cooks produced such excellent food in the middle of nowhere is beyond me), a run through the day’s bird list and a description of the following day’s activities. Most people then went straight back to their rooms as it was to be another pre-dawn start.

Wednesday 7th October

A second trip to the clay-lick was the reason for the early start and no one was complaining. Once again the noise from the parrots was already building as we arrived and sat ourselves down to and waited for the main event. Most of the same species appeared but we were also able to add Blue-headed Macaw and White-eyed Parakeet to the parrot list. A very distant Sun Bittern and a slightly closer Striated Heron were spotted by the guides as were fly over Pale-rumped and Short-tailed Swifts and a Bare-necked Fruitcrow. Once again we headed back to the lodge for breakfast but this time the entertainment was provided by a Fork-tailed Woodnymph feeding from Helliconia flowers just outside the canteen.

Red and Green Macaws

Fork-tailed Woodnymph

For the rest of the morning we again split into 2 groups for a jungle walk. Tape-luring provided glimpses of birds such as Long-winged Antwren and Dusky-throated Antshrike whilst a group of 5 Pale-winged Trumpeters were a bit easier to find. Some of us were lucky enough to get a much closer view of a pair of Sun Bitterns as they were flushed from a jungle pool as we passed by.
For our afternoon walk we came back together and visited the island from where we had viewed the clay-lick. Tape-luring produced brief sightings of Blackish and White-browed Antbird and rather better views of Scarlet-hooded Barbet in the canopy. A roosting Ferruginous Pygmy Owl was pointed out by Oscar as we returned to the boat. As we climbed the steps Oscar shone his torch back across the river and in the distance several pairs of bright eyes shone back – our first and only sighting of Caiman.
Scarlet-hooded Barbet
Somewhat sadly we returned to the lodge as this was out final night in Tambopata and we were to leave the rainforest the following day.

Thursday 8th October

Yet another pre-dawn start, this time for a walk back to the river for the canoe trip to Puerto Maldonado. Perhaps because it was a morning trip the journey back was rather more successful from a birding point of view. Numerous heron species were noted and Cattle Egret was added to our trip list. Two Large-billed Terns flew past followed by a second Yellow-billed which was a relief for the birder who slept through its first appearance! A single Muscovy Duck on the river bank was a treat for those of us who had only ever seen the ugly English farmyard variety. Three Sand-coloured Nighthawks were found roosting on branches in the river and an Osprey flew over. As we neared Puerto Maldonado I made the foolish error of putting my camera away. Just a few minutes later we passed a group of 3 Black Skimmers loafing on a sandbank. Not particularly rare here but a bird I’d wanted to see since I was a boy but by the time my camera was ready again they were far behind us. The effort wasn’t wasted however as just a few minutes later we passed a fine Jabiru resting on another sandbank and got great views, and pictures.

Tambopata River at dawn

Jabiru

Once back in Puerto Maldonado we were transported back to the airport bidding farewell to Oscar and Uriel before taking the hour-long flight to Cusco. Here we were met by William, our new wildlife guide, and Manuel, the cultural guide. We drove to the centre of Cusco, dropped our bags off at our hotel and it was straight out into the city for a fascinating tour led by Manuel. A few common birds were added to the list as we walked around – Chiguanco Thrush, Rufous-collared Sparrow and Puna Ibis – with all of which we would become very familiar over the next few days.

Cusco

Inca wall in Cusco (and Manuel)

Friday 9th October

After a quick breakfast in our hotel we walked to the central square in Cusco to meet up with our bus and driver for the day. Our first port of call was the Huarcarpay Lakes a small, wetland area about an hour from the city. On the open water were Puna, Yellow-billed and Cinnamon Teal; probing around in the shallows were several Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs and a single American Golden Plover (a rare visitor here, we were told); in the skies above were Andean and Brown-bellied Swallows, White-collared Swifts and a single juvenile Mountain Caracara passed over. 

Yellow-billed Teal

Juvenile Mountain Caracara

But the main event was really happening in the reed beds with lots of Yellow-winged Blackbirds, Wren-like Rushbirds very vocal but affording only occasional glimpses and the gloriously gaudy Many-coloured Rush-tyrant which, with patience, eventually showed well. A pair of Andean Negrito also appeared briefly.

Many-coloured Rush Tyrant

We walked along the lakeside road stopping for various birds in the bushes – Giant Hummingbird, Hooded Siskin, Cinereous Conebill and Golden-billed Saltator all being added to the list. The bus had pulled ahead of us and we climbed on board to be taken to the far side of the lake. Here was a bit drier, still with lots of reed beds but with patches of bare land in between and very quickly our target bird appeared – Plumbeous Rail. Initially quite difficult to see, one bird eventually came out into full view. A beautiful, dark-coloured rail with contrasting pale yellow bill and bright pink legs it appeared nervous of the larger Moorhens in the area and would repeatedly dash into cover before reappearing. As the group watched the rails a small. bushy-tailed dog appeared a couple of hundred yards up the road, carrying what appeared to be a dead rabbit. More interested in trying to work out what the prey was it took me a little while to realise I was actually watching an Andean Fox. Unfortunately, as I called it out the fox moved off the road and disappeared from sight so only one other person saw it.

Giant Hummingbird

Plumbeous Rail

We carried on up the road hoping we might see the fox again (we didn’t) and headed down a side road towards a different and smaller lake. Two new hummers were added to the growing list along here with good views of a Green-tailed Trainbearer and a fly-by Bearded Mountaineer. The hoped-for bird in these lakes was White-tufted Grebe and as soon as we arrived one swam past just a few yards away. Over the next few minutes we had fine views of three individuals.

Green-tailed Trainbearer

White-tufted Grebe

We drove along the Sacred Valley heading towards Pisac, our destination for the afternoon, stopping off for lunch by the side of the road with fabulous views of the ancient agricultural terraces and the Inca ruins above us. It was the turn of our cultural guide Manuel to show us around and he led us through the ruins giving a fascinating running commentary of the history of the area. Trying to lecture a group of birders on anything but birding must be a fairly hopeless task but Manuel kept our attention brilliantly, even coping well with the inevitable birdy interruptions. These consisted of Peruvian Sierra-finch, Yellow-billed Tit-tyrant and the only sighting we were to have of Andean Flicker.

Pisac

Pisac

Birding was pretty much over for the day but we had one more site to visit – the amazing Inca ruins of Saqsaywaman. Unfortunately the visit was cut short as a second member of the group, my wife, became ill with what turned out to be a severe case of altitude sickness. Returning to the hotel a doctor was called. He administered injections, tablets and advice and both patients were well enough to travel the following morning.

Saturday 10th October

We were all up early for what was due to be one of the birding highlights of the whole trip – the drive along the Manu road from Cusco to the Cock of the Rock Lodge. It was a long journey over rough roads but with regular stops for birding and ended up taking close to 12 hours.

The cloud forest
Highlights included our fourth species of Pottoo (Andean) which had a regular daytime roost on a roadside tree – I marvel that it was found in the first place but regularly re-finding it must be quite a feat. Chestnut-breasted Mountain-finch was a new endemic for us and showed extremely well as did a stunning male Golden-headed Quetzal. Several new hummers were added to the list and far better views of Bearded Mountaineer were achieved, although I still didn’t manage a decent photo. Others were Tyrrean Metaltail, Green Violetear and the beautifully named Shining Sunbeam.

Chestnut-breasted Mountain-finch

Golden-headed Quetzal

Despite the time the journey took we still arrived at the Cock of the Rock Lodge (CORL, for short) with a little daylight left. Enough time to find Violet-fronted Brilliant, Booted Racket-tail and Andean Motmot outside the communal dining room and a diminutive White-bellied Woodstar nectaring on a bush outside our room.

Andean Motmot

White-bellied Woodstar

Booted Racket-tail

Sunday 11th October

Overnight I came down with a stomach bug which meant I didn’t really feel up to the morning’s activity – a drive further down the Manu road – despite taking liberal doses of Immodium. As it turned out there are far worse places to stay for a morning. I installed myself in the dining room and spent the time watching the bird feeders and flowering bushes. I’d seen some film of Wire-crested Thorntail before coming to Peru and it was one of my personal target birds. I couldn’t have had better views with two individuals, male and female, visiting a particular bush every 20 minutes or so – I even managed some reasonable photos. Other birds visiting included Wedge-billed Hummingbird, White-browed Hermit, Speckled Hummingbird and Golden Tanager. Some mammals were also attracted to the feeders with Brown Agouti, Bolivian Squirrel and Brown Capuchin all putting in an appearance.

Wire-crested Thorntail

Speckled Hummingbird

Brown Capuchin

By the afternoon I was feeling better and was able to rejoin the group. Just as well as this was when we were booked in to visit the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek which was a ten minute drive down the road. The bus pulled up outside a rather dishevelled looking hide. A series of canvas sheets had been put along one side of the road making views of the lek impossible unless you had access to the hide. We did, and entered through a rough wooden door leading onto a small wooden platform – there was just enough room for the ten of us with two guides but it wasn’t ideal. Several Cocks-of-the-Rock were immediately obvious below us but quite some distance away and obscured by trees and bushes. As time passed the birds got closer and the lekking became more intense with the adult males taking it in turn to perform their bouncing display from specific, favoured branches. It was mesmerising and after an hour or so when things began to slow down we had all managed to take some excellent pictures of an unforgettable experience.

Andean Cock-of-the-rock

The rest of the afternoon was taken up with more birding along the Manu road and I was lucky enough to connect with many of the birds seen by the others during the morning. Highlights included the only White-capped Dipper seen on the trip, three Black Phoebes and several new species of tanager and flycatcher.

Monday 12th October

Our final full day at CORL was taken up with a trip along the Manu road to the village of Pilcopata. As usual there were lots of birding stops along the way and we probably added more species to our list on this trip than on any other. Our guide William successfully tape-lured a number of otherwise hard to see species such as Barred Antshrike, Dot-winged Antwren and the endemic Black-backed Tody-flycatcher. The charming Cinnamon Flycatcher and numerous other flycatchers and tanagers were added along with a stunning Black-and-Chestnut Eagle, the beautiful Blue-crowned Trogon and I finally connected with Speckled Chachalaca, first seen by the others in the group back in Posada Amazonas – that now seems such a long time ago! A further two species of hummingbird were also added to the list – White-bearded Hermit and Golden-tailed Sapphire.

Cinnamon Flycatcher

Brown and chestnut Eagle

Golden-tailed Sapphire


We arrived back at CORL in time for dinner and packing as we were in for another early start in the morning for the trip back to Cusco.

Tuesday 13th October

The day started well with Versicoloured Barbet and Bananaquit in the hotel grounds as we had breakfast. We boarded the bus and drove back the way we had come stopping off less frequently than before. We stopped for lunch and managed a few minutes of birding which turned up Moustached Flowerpiercer, White-throated Tyrannulet and Streak-necked Flycatcher. 

White-throated Tyrannulet

About halfway to Cusco we had to take a diversion through the mountains as the main road was closed for repairs. Road signs were entirely absent and it seemed the driver was navigating more by guesswork than anything else but he seemed satisfied when we eventually found some road-workers to ask for directions. We had little time to stop but did take 5 minutes to take photos of some Mountain Caracaras in a roadside field.

Mountain Caracara

We arrived back at our hotel in Cusco shortly after dark, had a quick meal and retired in readiness for another busy day to come.

Wednesday 14th October

This was to be the final leg of our journey in Peru – the trip to Machu Picchu. We started off early (of course) with a coach trip to Poroy on the outskirts of Cusco where we were to board a train for the trip to Aguas Calientes. The train journey, whilst fully booked and therefore crowded, was a pretty relaxed affair. Never going more than about 20 mph the ‘Vistadome’ train strolled through the countryside spending much of its time travelling alongside the Urubamba River. Torrent Ducks appeared at regular intervals (I counted 12) but there was no sign of any White-capped Dippers.

Torrent Duck

We arrived in Aguas Calientes at about 11, checked into our hotel then joined the long queue for buses up the mountain. Whilst the queue was long it was very well managed and moved along quickly and before we knew it we were at the entrance to Machu Picchu…in another queue. Manuel led us around the site telling us its history. We briefly left for lunch in a local restaurant before returning to the ruins for a more leisurely wander around taking in the iconic views of MP and taking the obligatory photo. William was also with us and attempted to tape lure an Inca Wren, but with no luck. All too soon it was time to leave and once again we were in the queue to go back down the mountain. The ever vigilant William pointed out a White-winged Black Tyrant in vegetation high above us.





Machu Picchu


Thursday 15th October

Our last full day in Peru. The birders amongst us spent the entire morning in the grounds of our hotel, the Inkaterra Pueblo, where hummingbird feeders attracted the likes of Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Collared Inca and the endemic Green-and-White Hummingbird. Fruit had been laid out to attract various tanager species as well as Thick-billed Euphonia and Blue Dacnis. A walk through the grounds to the river produced Ocellated Piculet, Golden-olive Woodpecker, the wonderfully named Marble-faced Bristle Tyrant and many others. On the river we got excellent views of Torrent Ducks and finally connected with Torrent Tyrannulet.

Chestnut-breasted Coronet

Collared Inca

Thick-billed Euphonia


After lunch it was back on the train for another slow journey back to Cusco, less enjoyable on this occasion as much of the trip was in the dark. Back in Cusco we had a quick meal before retiring, exhausted, for our final night in Peru.

Friday 16th October

The trip back to Lima was uneventful. We stopped for lunch in the capital and had great views of an Amazilia Hummingbird then had a time-filling trip to a museum where the highlight was a dark-phase Vermillion Flycatcher in the grounds. It was then back to the airport for the long trip home.

Bird List

Great Tinamou - 1 near Tambopata Research Centre (TRC)
Orinoco Goose - 6 along Tambopata River
Orinoco Goose
Muscovy Duck - 2 along Tambopata River
Torrent Duck - frequent along Urubamba River
Yellow-billed Teal - numerous at Huarcapay Lakes
Puna Teal - numerous at Huarcapay Lakes
Cinnamon Teal - small numbers at Patanos de Villa marshes and Huarcapay Lakes
Speckled Chachalaca - 3 near Pillcopata, Manu
Spix's Guan - 1 from Canopy Tower, Posada Amazonas and 1 at clay-lick near TRC
Blue-throated Piping-Guan - up to 6 at clay-lick near TRC
Pied-billed Grebe - 1 at Patanos de Villa Marshes
White-tufted Grebe - 3 at Huarcapay Lakes
Great Grebe - 2 at Patanos de Villa marshes
Humboldt Penguin - c40 on Palomino Islands
Sooty Shearwater - 1 off Palomino Islands
White-vented Storm-Petrel - numerous off Palomino Islands
White-vented Storm-Petrel
Wilson's Storm-Petrel - numerous off Palomino Islands
Peruvian Diving Petrel - 2 off Palomino Islands
Peruvian Pelican - numerous off Callao
Peruvian Booby - numerous off Callao and Palomino Islands
Neotropic Cormorant - numerous off Callao and Palomino Islands. Also present on Tres Chimbadas.
Guanay Cormorant - 1 off Palomino Islands
Red-legged Cormorant - small numbers off Palomino Islands
Red-legged Cormorant
Anhinga - 2 0n River Tambopata, 1 on Tres Chimbadas
Capped Heron - small numbers along Tambopata River
Cocoi Heron - frequent along Tambopata River and Tres Chimbadas
Great White Egret - small numbers along Tambopata River
Little Blue Heron - 6 at Patanos de Villa marshes
Snowy Egret - common at Patanos de Villa marshes and along Tambopata River
Cattle Egret - small numbers along Tambopata River
Striated Heron - 1 on clay-lick at TRC
Black-crowned Night Heron - 2 at Patanos de Villa marshes; 1 from train near Cusco
Puna Ibis - common around Cusco

Puna Ibis
Jabiru - 1 along Tambopata River
Black Vulture - common over Lima
Turkey Vulture - common on Palomino Islands, also seen at TRC
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture - common along Tambopata River and near TRC
King Vulture - 2 at Posada Amazonas; 1 at Pillcopata
Osprey - 1 over Tambopata River
Swallow-tailed Kite - 2 over Tambopata River; 12 along Manu Road

Swallow-tailed Kite
Plumbeous Kite - 1 with Swallow-tailed Kites along Tambopata River; 5 along Manu Road
Crane Hawk - 1 along Tambopata River
Harris' Hawk - 1 at Patanos de Villa marshes
Roadside Hawk - 1 along Tambopata River; 4 along Manu Road
Variable Hawk - 1 near Pisac
Black and Chestnut Eagle - 2 along Manu Road
Black Caracara - several around TRC
Red-throated Caracara - several around TRC

Red-throated Caracara
Mountain Caracara - 1 over Huarcapay Lakes; several along Manu Road
American Kestrel - 1 at Patanos de Villa; small numbers around Cusco and Machu Picchu
Bat Falcon - 2 at clay-lick near TRC
Peregrine Falcon - 1 near Pisac
Pale-winged Trumpeter - group of 5+ near TRC
Plumbeous Rail - c5 at Huarcapay Lakes
Common Moorhen - numerous in Pantanos de Villa and Huarcapay Lakes
Andean Coot - 4 at Pantanos de Villa
Sungrebe - 3 at Tres Chimbadas; several along Tambopata River
Sunbittern - one distantly from clay-lick; 2 flushed from pond near TRC
Wattled Jacana - 1 at Tres Chimbadas
American Oystercatcher - 10 at Pantanos de Villa
Peruvian Thick-knee - 2 at Pantanos de Villa
American Golden Plover - 1 at Huarcapay Lakes
Killdeer - 2 at Pantanos de Villa
Andean Lapwing - 2 at Huarcapay Lakes
Hudsonian Whimbrel - several at Pantanos de Villa
Greater Yellowlegs - numerous at Pantanos de Villa and Huarcapay Lakes
Lesser Yellowlegs - numerous at Huarcapay Lakes
Solitary Sandpiper - 3 at clay-lick
Spotted Sandpiper - 3 at Pantanos de Villa; 1 at clay-lick
Ruddy Turnstone - 6 at Callao harbour
Surfbird - 10 at Callao harbour
Belcher's Gull - numerous at Callao and Palomino Islands
Kelp Gull - numerous at Callao and Palomino Islands
Grey-headed Gull - several at Callao harbour
Andean Gull - 2 at Pantanos de Villa; common around Cusco
Grey Gull - several at Callao harbour

Grey Gull
Yellow-billed Tern - 2 along Tambopata River
Large-billed Tern - 2 along Tambopata River
Inca Tern - numerous at Callao and Palomino Islands
Black Skimmer - 3 along Tambopata River
Spot-winged Pigeon - 1 in Cusco
Pale-vented Pigeon - several at Tres Chimbadas and around TRC
Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon - common in Cusco
Eared Dove - common in Cusco
West Peruvian Dove - several in Lima
Bare-faced Ground-Dove - several at Huarcapay Lakes
Blue and Yellow Macaw - numerous at clay-lick and around TRC

Blue and Yellow Macaw
Scarlet Macaw - numerous at clay-lick and around TRC
Red and Green Macaw - 2 near Posada Amazonas; numerous at clay-lick and around TRC
Chestnut-fronted Macaw - several at Tres Chimbadas and clay-lick
Red-bellied Macaw - small numbers at clay-lick
Blue-headed Macaw - small numbers at clay-lick
White-eyed Parakeet - small group over clay-lick
Dusky-headed Parakeet - 2 near Posada Amazonas; small numbers at clay-lick
Cobalt-winged Parakeet - several at Tres Chimbadas and at clay-lick
White-bellied Parrot - small numbers at clay-lick
Orange-cheeked Parrot - numerous at clay-lick
Blue-headed Parrot - 6 at Posada Amazonas; numerous at clay-lick
Speckle-faced Parrot - several over Manu Road; 2 at Aguas Calientes
Yellow-crowned Parrot - numerous at clay-lick
Scaly-naped Parrot - 2 over Manu Road
Mealy Parrot - 1 at Posada Amazonas; numerous at clay-lick
Hoatzin - 6 at Tres Chimbadas; 4 near TRC
Squirrel Cuckoo - 1 at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (CORL); 3 near Pillcopata
Greater Ani - 2 at Tres Chimbadas

Greater Ani
Smooth-billed Ani - small numbers at Tres Chimbadas, Huarcapay Lakes and Pillcopata
Ferrugionous Pygmy Owl - 1 near TRC
Burrowing Owl - 2 at Pantanos de Villa
Great Potoo - 1 along Tambopata River

Great Potoo
Long-tailed Potoo - 1 with chicks near TRC
Common Potoo - 1 near TRC
Andean Potoo - 1 along Manu Road
Sand-coloured Nighthawk - 3 along Tambopata River
Chestnut-collared Swift - several over Manu Road
White-collared Swift - several over Huarcapay Lakes and Manu Road
Pale-rumped Swift - 1 over clay-lick
Short-tailed Swift - 1 over clay-lick
Andean Swift - small numbers over Huarcapay Lakes
White-bearded Hermit - 1 along Manu Road
Green-fronted Lancebill - 1 along Manu Road
Sparkling Violetear - several at CORL

Sparkling Violetear
Wire-crested Thorntail - 2 at CORL
Fork-tailed Woodnymph - 2 at TRC
Green and White Hummingbird - 2 at Aguas Calientes
Amazilia Hummingbird - 1 at Pantanos de Villa; 1 in Lima
Golden-tailed Sapphire - 1 along Manu Road
Speckled Hummingbird - 2/3 at CORL
Violet-fronted Brilliant - several at CORL
Chestnut-breasted Coronet - several in Aguas Calientes
Shining Sunbeam - several along Manu Road
Collared Inca - several at Aguas Calientes
Giant Hummingbird - 1 at Huarcapay Lakes; several along Manu Road
Booted Racket-tail - several at CORL
Green-tailed Trainbearer - 1 at Huarcapay Lakes; 1 along Manu Road
Bearded Mountaineer - 1 at Huarcapay Lakes; 1 along Manu Road

Bearded Mountaineer
Tyrian Metaltail - 2 along Manu Road
Long-tailed Sylph - 1 along Manu Road
Wedge-billed Hummingbird - several at CORL
White-bellied Woodstar - several at CORL
Golden-headed Quetzal - 1 along Manu Road
Collared Trogon - 2 near TRC
Masked Trogon - 1 along Manu Road
Blue-crowned Trogon - 1 along Manu Road
Ringed Kingfisher - 2 at Tres Chimbadas

Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher - 1 near TRC
Amazonian (Blue-crowned) Motmot - 1 at Posada Amazonas
Andean (Highland) Motmot - 1 at CORL
Bluish-fronted Jacamar - 2 near TRC
Striolated Puffbird - 1 near Tres Chimbadas

Striolated Puffbird
Black-fronted Nunbird - 2 at TRC
White-fronted Nunbird - 1 near TRC
Swallow-wing - 1 near TRC
Gilded Barbet - 1 near TRC
Scarlet-hooded Barbet - 2/3 near TRC
Blue-banded Toucanet - 2 along Manu Road
White-throated Toucan - 1 near TRC
Ocelated Piculet - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker - 2 at Posada Amazonas; 1 near TRC
Little Woodpecker - 2 near TRC
Golden-green Woodpecker - 1 along Manu Road
Golden-olive Woodpecker - 1 at Aguas Calientes

Golden-olive Woodpecker
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker - 2 along Manu Road
Andean Flicker - 1 at Pisac
Lineated Woodpecker - 1 near TRC
Crimson-crested Woodpecker - 1 near TRC
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper - 1 near TRC
Black-banded Woodcreeper - 1 along Manu Road
Elegant Woodcreeper - 1 near TRC
Buff-throated Woodcreeper - 1 near TRC
Olive-backed Woodcreeper - 1 along Manu Road
Montane Woodcreeper - 2 along Manu Road
Surf Cinclodes - 1 on Palomino Islands
Pale-legged Hornero - 2 at clay-lick
Rusty-fronted Canastero - 1 at Huarcapay Lakes
Wren-like Rushbird - several at Huarcapay Lakes
Pearled Treerunner - 1 along Manu Road
Montane Foliage-gleaner - 1 along Manu Road
Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner - 1 near TRC
Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner - 1 near TRC
Streaked Xenops - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Chestnut-backed Antshrike - 1 along Manu Road
Plain-winged Antshrike - 1 near TRC
Dusky-throated Antshrike - 1 near TRC
Bluish-slate Antshrike - 1 near TRC
Stripe-chested Antwren - 1 along Manu Road
Ornate Antwren - 2 near TRC
Foothill Antwren - 1 along Manu Road
Long-winged Antwren - 1 near TRC
Grey Antwren - 1 near TRC
Dot-winged Antwren - 1 along Manu Road
Striated Antbird - 1 along Manu Road
Blackish Antbird - 2 near TRC
White-browed Antbird - 1 near TRC
Yellow-breasted (Warbling) Antbird - 1 along Manu Road
White-lined Antbird - 1 near TRC
Scaled-backed Antbird - 1 near TRC
Cinereous Mourner - 1 near TRC
Slaty-capped Flycatcher - several along Manu Road
Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher - 1 along Manu Road
Common Tody-flycatcher - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Black-backed Tody-flycatcher - 1 along Manu Road
Sclater's Tyrannulet - 1 along Manu Road
Ashy-headed Tyrannulet - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet - 1 at Machu Picchu
Small-billed Elaenia - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Mottle-backed Elaenia - several at clay-lick
Sierran Elaenia - 2 along Manu Road
White-throated Tyrannulet - 1 along Manu Road
White-banded Tyrannulet - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Torrent Tyrannulet - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant - 1 at Pisac; 1 along Manu Road
Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant - numerous at Huarcapay Lakes
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Olivaceous Flatbill - 1 along Manu Road
Unadorned Flycatcher - 1 along Manu Road

Unadorned Flycatcher
Cinnamon Flycatcher - several along Manu Road
Smoke-coloured Pewee - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Black Phoebe - 3 along Manu Road; several along Urubamba River
Vermillion Flycatcher - 1 at Pantanos de Villa; dark morph in Lima
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant - 1 along Manu Road
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant - 1 along Manu Road
Drab Water Tyrant - several at clay-lick and along Tambopata River
Andean Negrito - 2 at Huarcapay Lakes
White-winged Black Tyrant - 1 at Machu Picchu
Long-tailed Tyrant - several along Manu Road
Bright-rumped Attila - 1 near TRC
Swainson's Flycatcher - 1 near TRC
Short-crested Flycatcher - 1 along Manu Road
Brown-crested Flycatcher - 1 near TRC
Tropical Kingbird - common along Tambopata River and Manu Road

Tropical Kingbird
Eastern Kingbird - 1 at clay-lick
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher - 1 near TRC
Sulphury Flycatcher - 1 along Manu Road
Lemon-browed Flycatcher - 1 along Manu Road
Golden-crowned Flycatcher - 1 along Manu Road
Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher - 1 near TRC
Streaked Flycatcher - 1 along Manu Road
Social Flycatcher - several at clay-lick, near TRC and along Manu Road
Great Kiskadee - small numbers near TRC and along Manu Road
Barred Becard - 1 along Manu Road; 1 at Aguas Calientes
Pink-throated Becard - 1 near TRC
Masked Tityra - 1 along Manu Road
Bare-necked Fruitcrow - 1 over clay-lick
Andean Cock-of-the-Rock - c20 at lek near CORL
Round-tailed Manakin - 2 near TRC
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin - 2 near TRC
Brown-capped Vireo - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Red-eyed (Chivy) Vireo - 1 near TRC; 1 at Aguas Calientes
Purplish Jay - 2 near TRC
Violaceous Jay - several near TRC; 1 along Manu Road

Violaceous Jay
White-collared Jay - 1 along Manu Road
White-winged Swallow - common along Tambopata River
Brown-bellied Swallow - several at Huarcapay Lakes and along Manu Road
Blue and White Swallow - common in Callao, Cusco, Manu Road and Aguas Calientes
White-banded Swallow - several along Tambopata River and along Manu Road
Southern Rough-winged Swallow - several along Tambopata River and along Manu Road
Andean Swallow - small numbers at Huarcapay Lakes
House Wren - 1 in Pisac; 1 in Aguas Calientes
Mountain Wren - 1 in Aguas Calientes
Grey-breasted Wood-Wren - 1 along Manu Road; 1 at Aguas Calientes
White-capped Dipper - 1 on river near CORL
White-eared Solitaire - 1 along Manu Road
Chiguanco Thrush - common in Cusco and along Manu Road
Great Thrush - 1 along Manu Road
Black-billed Thrush - 1 at clay-lick
White-necked Thrush - 1 near TRC
Long-tailed Mockingbird - 4 at Pantanos de Villa
Bananaquit - 1 at CORL
Magpie Tanager - 1 near TRC
Short-billed (Yellow-whiskered) Bush-tanager - 1 along Manu Road
Yellow-throated Bush-tanager - 2 along Manu Road
Superciliaried Hemispingus - 1 along Manu Road
Rust and Yellow Tanager - 1 along Manu Road
Guira Tanager - 1 near TRC
White-winged Shrike-tanager - 1 near TRC
Slaty Tanager - 1 along Manu Road
White-shouldered Tanager - 1 near TRC
Silver-beaked Tanager - common near TRC, along Manu Road and at Aguas Calientes

Silver-beaked Tanager
Blue-Grey Tanager - common near TRC, along Manu Road and at Aguas Calientes
Blue-capped Tanager - 2 along Manu Road
Blue and Yellow Tanager - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Palm Tanager - 2 in Puerto Maldonado airport; 1 along Manu Road; 1 at Aguas Calientes
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager - 2 along Manu Road
Yellow-throated Tanager - 1 along Manu Road
Fawn-breasted Tanager - 1 along Manu Road
Thick-billed Euphonia - 2 at Aguas Calientes
White-lored Euphonia - 1 along Manu Road
Blue-naped Chlorophonia - 1 along Manu Road; 1 at Aguas Calientes
Paradise Tanager - 1 along Manu Road
Green and Gold Tanager - 2 near TRC
Golden Tanager - 2 at CORL; several along Manu Road
Saffron-crowned Tanager - 1 along Manu Road; 1 at Aguas Calientes
Bay-headed Tanager - 1 along Manu Road
Golden-naped Tanager - 1 along Manu Road; 1 at Aguas Calientes
Blue-necked Tanager - 2 along Manu Road; 1 at Aguas Calientes
Beryl-spangled Tanager - 2 along Manu Road
Blue and Black Tanager - 1 along Manu Road
Silver-backed Tanager - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Blue-Dacnis - 2 at Aguas Calientes

Blue Dacnis
Black-faced Dacnis - 1 near TRC
Swallow Tanager - 1 along Manu Road
Rusty Flowerpiercer - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Moustached Flowerpiercer - 1 along Manu Road
Black-throated Flowerpiercer - 2 along Manu Road
Deep-blue Flowerpiercer - 2 along Manu Road
Masked Flowerpiercer - 1 along Manu Road
Rufous-collared Sparrow - common in Cusco
Yellow-browed Sparrow - 1 at clay-lick; 1 along Manu Road
Red-capped Cardinal - 1 at Tres Chimbadas
Peruvian Sierra-finch - 1 at Pisac
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-finch - 1 along Manu Road
Yellow-bellied Seedeater - common along Manu Road
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater - 1 along Manu Road
Chestnut-bellied Seed-finch - 1 along Manu Road
Band-tailed Seedeater - several at Pisac
Black-backed Grosbeak - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Golden-billed Saltator - 1 at Huarcapay Lakes; 1 along Manu Road
Tropical Parula - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Slate-throated Redstart - 2 at Aguas Calientes

Slate-throated Redstart
Spectacled Redstart - 1 along Manu Road
Two-banded Warbler - 1 along Manu Road
Russet-crowned Warbler - 1 at Aguas Calientes
Cinereous Conebill - 1 at Huarcapay Lakes
Capped Conebill - 1 along Manu Road
Crested Oropendola - small numbers at Posada Amazonas and along Manu Road
Dusky-green Oropendola - small numbers along Manu Road and at Aguas Calientes
Russet-backed Oropendola - common near TRC and along Manu Road
Olive Oropendola - 2 at Posada Amazonas
Yellow-rumped Cacique - several near TRC and along Manu Road
Yellow-winged Blackbird - common at Huarcapay Lakes
Yellow-hooded Blackbird - 1 at Pantanos de Villa
Scrub Blackbird - 6 at Pantanos de Villa
Shiny Cowbird - 1 in Lima
Giant Cowbird - several along Tambopata River
Hooded Siskin - 30/40 at Huarcapay Lakes; small numbers along Manu Road

Mammal List

Southern Sea-lion - hundreds on Palamino Islands
Saddleback Tamarin - 6 at Posada Amazonas
Dusky Titi Monkey - 2 at Posada Amazonas
Brown Capuchin Monkey - small group at CORL
Red Howler Monkey - several around TRC and along Manu Road

Red Howler Monkey
Peruvian Spider Monkey - small group near TRC
Capybara - 2 by Tambopata River
Southern Amazon Red Squirrel - 1 at Posada Amazonas
Bolivian Squirrel - 1 at CORL
Brown Agouti - 1 at CORL
Andean Fox - 1 at Huarcapay Lakes
Vizcacha - 1 at Machu Picchu

Vizcacha